Kandariya Mahadeva Temple: Khajuraho

 Kandariya Mahadeva Temple: Khajuraho's Grandest Shrine

Introduction

Step into a world where stone speaks the language of divinity and desire. In the heart of Madhya Pradesh lies Khajuraho, a constellation of temples that represents the pinnacle of Indo-Aryan architecture. Dominating this landscape is the Kandariya Mahadev Temple, a colossal tribute to Lord Shiva that is not merely a place of worship, but a breathtaking chronicle of life, spirituality, and art from the 11th century. Built by the powerful Chandela dynasty, this temple is the largest and most intricately sculpted shrine in Khajuraho, standing as a testament to the unparalleled skill and vision of its builders. Prepare to explore a monument whose towering spires and thousands of detailed carvings invite you to witness the zenith of mediaeval Indian artistry.

Kandariya Mahadeva Temple: Khajuraho's Grandest Shrine

Nestled in the UNESCO World Heritage site of Khajuraho, the Kandariya Mahadev Temple stands as the largest and most majestic monument of the Western Group of temples. Constructed from 1025 to 1050 AD during the reign of the Chandela dynasty, this shrine is a quintessential expression of Central Indian temple architecture.

The temple's name is derived from the Sanskrit word Kandra, meaning cave, suggesting an entry akin to a cave, while the massive superstructure resembles a mountain (parvata). Towering at 31 metres (102 feet) in length and crowned with a central spire reaching 31 metres (101 feet) in height, it exemplifies architectural harmony and finesse. The temple originally followed the Panchayatana style, featuring the central shrine dedicated to Shiva (housing a marble Shiva Lingam in the Garba Griha) surrounded by four now-destroyed subsidiary shrines at the corners.

Plan of the Temple

Architectural Harmony and Structure

The Kandariya Mahadev Temple rests on a strong granite base and platform (jagati), which is then clad in sandstone. The structural design is a masterpiece of scientific and mathematical calculation, incorporating several key features:

• Unique Interior Passage: Unlike many traditional Hindu temples, the interior features a rare open passage (pradakshina patha) around the sanctum, forming a high altar space.

• The Spire (Shikhara): The temple is renowned for its main Shikhara surrounded by 84 subsidiary spires of varying sizes. This cluster of spires, each topped with an amalaka and kalash, symbolically represents Mount Kailash and is sometimes linked to the concept of the 84 lakh unique species (yoni). 

• Construction Technique: The pyramidal spires are designed in layers and are centrally hollow, ensuring perfect weight distribution. The structure relies on interlocking stone masonry, starting from a strong stone beam that rests on pillars. The granite structural assembly is then beautifully clad with carved sandstone elements, giving the exterior the impression of having been carved from wood.

Section showing the construction of the temple 

Note on Preservation: While the structure is mostly original (approximately 75%), the platform, staircases, balconies, and some upper parts have undergone significant renovation. Furthermore, the temple's platform was historically independent but was later connected to the adjacent Devi Jagadambi Temple for tourist convenience.

Temple platform connected with adjacent Devi Jagadambi Temple

The Grandeur of Sculpture and Artistry

The artistry of the Kandariya Mahadev Temple is celebrated across India, boasting nearly 900 intricately carved figures, each standing about 2.5 to 3 feet tall.

• Exterior Sculptures: The walls are famously adorned with erotic carvings—an expression of India’s cultural heritage and a depiction of aspects of life, celestial beings, and spiritual philosophy. The exterior is structured in three distinct layers of main figures of different sizes, complemented by numerous smaller figures, including celestial beings like Apsaras (nymphs) and Nagas/Vishakanyas (ladies with snakes).

• Elephant Sculptures: Above the temple balconies, you can spot the remnants of decorative sculptures. While every balcony originally featured two elephants, only two sculptures remain available today.

Elephant Sculptures

• Entrance Details: The arched entrance (makara torana) is decorated with celestial beings, musicians, and floral carvings. The base of the door jambs features figures of Ganga and Yamuna, accompanied by their respective mounts: the crocodile (makara) and the tortoise (kurma).

The Saptamatrikas and Niches

The lower band of carvings features numerous niches with important deities. A particularly notable panel displays the Seven Mother Goddesses (Saptamatrikas), a key difference from the Dashavatara panel found on the nearby Lakshmana Temple:

1. Chandi (Chamunda): The first goddess, depicted with a scorpion on her stomach (symbolising desire) and performing tantra, is the Shakti (power) of Yama.

2. Indrani: The Shakti of Indra, with the elephant Airavata as her vehicle.

3. Varahi: The Shakti of Varaha (statue largely destroyed).

4. Vaishnavi: The Shakti of Vishnu, identified by the adjacent conch.

5. Kaumari: The Shakti of Kumar (Karthikeya), whose vehicle is the peacock.

6. Maheshwari: The Shakti of Mahesh (Shiva), holding a trident and a cobra, with Nandi as her vehicle.

7. Brahmani: The last goddess, the Shakti of Brahma.

In the niches, the first deity is traditionally Ganesha, depicted with his mouse vehicle, below which are layers showing war scenes and the Kirtimukha (Face of Glory), intended to absorb negative energy.

War scenes (first row) and Keerti Mukha (second row)

The Chandela Emblem and Khajuraho Dance Festival

• The Emblem of Courage: Found across all Khajuraho temples, the dynastic emblem of the Chandelas depicts the founder of the dynasty fighting a lion, a powerful symbol speaking to the courage and valour of the ruling kings.

• Cultural Hub: The Kandariya Mahadev Temple serves as a majestic backdrop for the Khajuraho Dance Festival, an annual cultural event held from February 20th to 26th. The festival, which has been conducted for over 50 years, showcases performances by Padma Shree and Padma Vibhushan awardees and other renowned classical artists.

Conclusion

The Kandariya Mahadev Temple is more than just a magnificent ruin; it is a meticulously preserved window into a golden age of Indian civilisation. From its foundation on a granite base to the crowning kalash on its highest spire, every stone narrates a tale of devotion, artistic genius, and sophisticated engineering. The temple's sheer scale, coupled with the dense, vibrant tapestry of its sculptures, offers a profound experience that captures the essence of mediaeval Hindu temple architecture. Standing before this mountain of stone, one cannot help but be humbled by the enduring legacy of the Chandela kings and the artisans who brought their divine vision to life. The Kandariya Mahadev Temple is an essential pilgrimage for anyone seeking to understand the heart and soul of India's artistic and spiritual heritage.