Garhi Padavali Temple

Garhi Padavali: The 10th-Century Temple Hidden Within a 19th-Century Fort

My journey through the historical landscape of Morena, Madhya Pradesh, led me from the stunning Bateshwar Group of Temples to a place of even greater mystery and layered history: Garhi Padavali. Located just 2 kilometres from Bateshwar, this site offered a profound and unexpected lesson in survival, art, and architectural transformation.

The Name Tells a Story

The very name, Garhi Padavali, hints at its unique nature. In Hindi, 'Garhi' (गढ़ी) is the diminutive of 'Garh', meaning a small fort, castle, or fortified house. This isn't just a temple; it's an ancient shrine that was later enclosed and protected by a robust fortification. The original settlement here was known as Dharon, believed to have been part of a significant ancient urban center alongside Kutwar (ancient Kantipuri) and Suhaniya (ancient Simhapaniya).

A Timeline of Dynasties and Destruction

The history of Padavali is long and deep. While artifacts suggest the region was important as early as the 6th century, the magnificent structure we see today—or the remnants of it—dates back to the 10th century.

It was constructed, most likely by the Kachhapaghata rulers, in a period when the region shifted power from the Pratiharas and Chandelas. This temple was dedicated to Lord Shiva and was renowned for its scale and beauty. As with many grand temples, it suffered its share of destruction, not just from natural calamities but also from historical invasions.

The most fascinating chapter in its history, however, came much later. Recognizing the temple's strategic elevation and spiritual importance, the Jat Ranas of Gohad chose to fortify the site in the 19th century. They constructed the 'Garhi'—the fort walls and bastions—to turn the platform into a defensive outpost, simultaneously protecting the revered temple and giving it its modern, dual identity.

An Unexpected Entrance: The Fortified Temple

Front Elevation of Garhi Padavali

Upon arrival, the site is immediately bewildering. I didn't see a typical temple complex; instead, I faced a compact, almost military-looking structure with two prominent bastions. It's the 19th-century fortification that greets you first.

As you ascend the flight of stairs—once guarded by carved lions, now preserved in Gwalior's Gujari Mahal Museum—you enter the courtyard.

Carved Lions 

The journey to the temple itself is now a walk through a makeshift sculpture gallery. Along the walkway, beautiful pieces recovered from the ruins, including Ganesha, Vishnu avatars, and celestial beings, are mounted on pedestals, a vivid preview of the artistic richness to come.

Makeshift sculptures gallery on either side of walkway A sculpture

An Archaeological Department inscription explains the layered construction: the 10th-century temple platform, built on a considerably raised adhisthana, was later fortified. A close examination of the walls reveals this story clearly:

1. Base: Finely dressed, consistently carved stone (the original 10th-century foundation).

2. Middle: Rougher, reused stone, some decorated (debris and repurposed material).

3. Top: Plain stone bricks (the 19th-century fort construction).

Wall revealing 

Base - finely dressed stones), 

Middle - Rougher, re-used stone and 

Top - Plain stone bricks (the 19th-century fort construction).

The Mandapa: A Carved Marvel of 10th-Century Art

Inside the fort walls, the remains of the 10th-century Shiva temple stand on their colossal platform. While the garbhagriha (sanctum sanctorum) is lost, what remains is arguably the greatest treasure: the maha-mandapa (main hall).

Mahamandapa

Supported by sixteen richly decorated pillars, the mandapa is a dizzying feast for the eyes. There is barely a plain surface. The high quality and rich variety of the sculptural and decorative ornaments are breathtaking, setting it apart as possibly the best of its kind in India. The carvings depict not only deities and geometric patterns but also everyday life, art, and the culture of that time.

Ornate carvings on pillars and beams

The most spectacular carvings are found on the architraves (beams) of the central bay, each narrating a significant epic event or theological concept along the four cardinal points:

• North Panel (Krishna’s Childhood): The Trimurti (Brahma, Vishnu, Maheshwara) preside over scenes detailing the birth and early exploits of Shri Krishna, from the lifting of Govardhana to the slaying of various demons.

• East Panel (Ramayana): Below the carving of Goddess Kali, Lord Rama and his Vanara Sena (monkey army) are shown worshipping a Shiva linga—a crucial moment before the battle with Ravana.

• South Panel (Mahabharata): Lord Shiva and Parvati (Uma-Maheshvar) are featured, with the lower scene dramatically depicting the war of Mahabharata, focusing on the slaying of Abhimanyu.

• West Panel (The Sun God): This captivating panel features Lord Surya, the Sun God, shown riding his seven-horse chariot, driven by his charioteer Aruna. The panel beneath also carries significant theological weight, depicting the carvings of Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva.

Beyond these major themes, the walls and pillars are filled with Sapta-matrikas, Vishnu Dashavataras, and various powerful forms of Shiva like the Gajasuravadha-murti (slayer of the elephant demon). Adding another layer of intrigue, the temple contains its share of erotic sculptures—not on the exterior, as famously seen at the broadly contemporary temples of Khajuraho, but inside the structure, a compelling difference in architectural expression.

Ornate carvings on roof & beams

An Intimate Encounter with History

My visit concluded with a quiet walk around the remains, taking in the full measure of the site's history. The fact that the original temple was said to be so tall it was visible from Gwalior Fort highlights its former stature, and the effort put into its 19th-century fortification speaks to its enduring reverence.

Many of the most beautiful detached sculptures are now safely housed in the Gujari Mahal and ASI Museums in Gwalior, but nothing compares to experiencing the density and detail of the carvings still in situ at Padavali.

For art lovers, history enthusiasts, and general travellers, Garhi Padavali is an unmissable destination. Its low footfall makes for a personal, quiet, and deeply profound historical encounter. When you plan your trip to Gwalior and Morena, do yourself a favour and make sure this fortified marvel is on your itinerary.